Categories
HF

K1FM QRO Loop

Overview

After years and years of QRP experiments I finally decided to build myself a QRO magnetic loop.

My requirements for this new antenna:

  • “Cheap” to make
  • No special tooling needed
  • 100+ Watt
  • Quick to design and build

Is with this spirit that I based my project upon two existing ones:

Eric’s design consists of a set of 3D printed supports that allow pole-mounting a Comet CVBA-500BC series capacitor and a NEMA 17 stepper motor with a 5:1 planetary reduction. One notable deficiency of Eric’s design is that it lacks proper housing of the capacitor/stepper assembly and – most importantly – it also lacks a viable control system.

That is where Jose’s controller came into play. Based around the venerable Arduino Uno board and a Pololu A4988 stepper driver hat, the controller is simple yet fully functional and battle tested by dozens of previous builders.

Loop Structure

In order to make the antenna construction quicker and simpler, I decided to avoid using copper pipes and replace them with LMR600 coaxial cable. In all honestly I didn’t even know LMR600 existed (I would have used LMR400) but then I was “inspired” by preciseRf’s HG3 QRO loop design and decided to use LMR600 instead.

LMR600 as a radiator coax is good and bad: good because it is larger and stiffer than LMR400, bad because crimping requires special clamps and special connectors. Fortunately I found a cheap pre-made, 10 foot N-to-N assembly on Amazon ($29) so I used that. As it turns out 10 foot is too long (should have been 8 or 9 instead) so I will have to figure out how to shorten that. I ended up purchasing a custom made 8 foot LMR600 equivalent (called “Bolton 600”) directly from its manufacturer Bolton Technical. The cable I received is actually 265 cm long (8.7 foot) and allows the antenna to resonate between 4 and 30MHz.

From Eric’s project I kept just 2 parts, which I had to customize to my specific needs (the capacitor holder had to be cut to fit my enclosure box, the motor holder as well because the motor somehow did not fit).

For the rest, the structure is built on 1-1/2″ schedule 40 PVC pipes. The feed loop is made out of LMR400 with a 3D printed splitter. The enclosure is a standard electric box I found on Amazon and the control cable is CAT5 Ethernet. Two RJ45 connectors are predisposed to carry both the loop control signals as well those for a future antenna rotator.

Capacitor

When it comes about Magnetic Loops, the Elephant in the Room (or in the box!) is the Capacitor. So let’s spend a few words about it.
Vacuum capacitors are expensive and hard to find and, you guessed it, mine is no exception.
The only chance you have to find one at a “reasonable” price is the aftermarket of used capacitors that were pulled from dismissed equipment. The main source is obviously Ebay but other reputable, specialized online sellers also exist. I got mine from mgs4u.com, a company I have known for at least a decade and that I trust. I willingly paid them $450 for an almost new CVBA-500BC/8 (the /8 variant can handle up to 8KV peak voltage) well knowing that other /5’s (the 5KV variant) were available at around half the price from international sellers on Ebay.

The million dollar question I bet you are asking now is: what kind of power can your antenna handle? Answer: I have no idea. All I know for sure is that it handles 100W without any problem, under any circumstances. By comparing it the HG3 loop, however, I guess that with an appropriate balun it might exceed 1500W SSB (I think – but I don’t know for sure – the H3G uses a 5KV capacitor). As I said this just hypothetical, and I believe my hypothesis will forever remain such because I doubt I will ever use more than 100W.

Given this is a QRO loop, I could not avoid adding a choke balun into the mix. I ended up choosing the one from Palomar Engineer that can take up to 500W, which is more than enough for me.

The project is still a work in progress and definitely requires some adjustments but, as of today, the antenna is up and running.

As it is to be expected from a loop of this size, it works very well above 30 meters and not so well below (a proper antenna for the low bands would require a bigger and/or multiple-spire radiator).

Future improvements

The improvements I am planning to make are:

  • having the radiator resonate between 5.3 and 29.7 MHz (it currently goes from 3.8 to 28.3 MHz) DONE
  • reimplement the controller to allow auto-tuning/remote operation DONE
  • add and antenna rotor that shares the existing control cable

Cost

When finished I will publish more detailed build plans. For now, here is a preliminary parts list:

PartP/NSellerCostNotes
Vacuum CapacitorCVBA-500BCEbay, mgs4u.com$200 to $500/5 is 5KV, /8 is 8KV
Stepper Motor17HS15-1684S-PG5Amazon$29 to $39Contains a 5:1 planar reduction
RadiatorLMR600 or equivalentAmazon,
Bolton
$29 to $49
EnclosureTICONN 11″x7.5″x5.5″Amazon$39Off-white cover also available
Pole mountQILIPSU Amazon$15
Choke BalunMC-1-500-50hro.com$70
Microcontroller + stepper driverArduino UNO, Pololu A4988Aliexpress$5
Adding the 3d printed and the hardware parts, the cables and the pipes the total is around $750

Categories
Uncategorized

Japan again!

During the past year I practically ended all ham radio related activities due to some family updates 👶 🙂

In the summer however I visited Italy again and… guess what? I had an opportunity to make another Japanese contact on 20 meters SSB, this time with JH1GEX Yutaka, near Tokyo.

Yutaka is an excellent operator: he routinely halts his pile-up to allow mobile / portable stations to make it through. If everyone would be so kind, portable operations would be much, much easier! Thank you Yutaka san!

Categories
3D Printing HF Portable

Build the K1FM-Loop

The latest version of the K1FM-Loop is electrically similar to the previous one, but it is designed around off-the-shelf parts or, more generically, items you can readily order online.

This antenna relies – heavily – on 3D printing. Acquiring the non-printed parts and assembling them should be fast and easy as no reworking at all is necessary. The needed tools are screwdrivers, wrench keys and a soldering iron. You also need a 3D printer, of course, or at least access to one.

Lets’s start from the parts list:

  • 3D Printed parts
  • Exciter Loop Splitter PCB (available shielded or unshielded – see below)
  • Variable Capacitor – Oren Elliot Products P/N S2-332x2P (21 blades, 2 gangs of 9.3 – 332.4 pF used in series)
  • ~40 inch selfie-stick
  • gopro bike mount
  • 15 inch photographic tripod
  • PL259 to PL259 LMR400 cable 125 inch long (for the radiator loop)
  • BNC-male straight to BNC-male straight LMR240 cable 25 inch long (for the exciter loop)
  • BNC-male straight to BNC-male straight RG316 cable ~6 ft long (for the feed line)
  • BNC-female Molex P/N 0731000105 (3 pieces for the Exciter Loop splitter)
  • SO239 panel connector (2 pieces for the capacitor enclosure)
  • MF-A05 Knob, 1/4inch shaft
  • Socket Head Cap Screw, M5-0.8mm Thread, 12mm Long, Alloy Steel, Black Oxide (8 pieces)
  • Button Head Socket Cap Screws, 6-32 x 5/16″, Black Oxide Alloy Steel (3 pieces)
  • Hex Socket Head Cap Screws Bolts, M3-0.5mm, 9mm Long, Alloy Steel , Black Oxide (8 pieces)
  • Hex Self Clinching Nuts, M3-0.5mm (8 pieces)
  • 18AWG electric cable ~5 inch
  • M3 Ring Cable Lugs Terminals (4 pieces)

The antenna is composed of three parts that I am going to describe separately. They are:

  1. Capacitor assembly
  2. Radiator / Exciter assembly
  3. Supporting structure

Let’s see them one by one:

Capacitor assembly

First of all, you need to print the necessary 3D printed parts. It might be opportune to print the Dial Bushing in a different color, in order to make more visible against the rest of the box.
I printed the box in PETG because of the enhanced mechanical and thermal characteristics. ABS would also be opportune I think, or even PLA (provided you are careful not to leave it inside of a burning car).

As the print goes, you can start working on the other parts.
All you need to do is solder a piece of cable on each gang terminal, on opposite sides. Terminate the cable extensions with a ring contact, like so:

Optionally, you could solder the same extension on the center connector of each SO239. This will allows to use the center conductor as part of the radiator (Do I think this is useful? I don’t, but I’m going to do it to avoid the complaints). Here are the connectors, ready to be used:

Now you can begin assembling the box.

Categories
3D Printing HF Portable

K1FM Magnetic Loop: 2020 edition

I really, really like magnetic loops.

After making a bit of a splash with at the Dayton Hamvention and publishing how to make your own on QST I decided to improve the design a bit more, so here I am with the latest iteration of the K1FM Magnetic Loop.

The new design improves the older one in a few key aspects:

Entirely 3D printed
Readily available, made in the USA variable capacitor
Easy to assemble

Basic geometry and main electrical characteristics remain unchanged:
– 4o to 10 meters
125 inches radiator
165pF variable capacitor (dual gang series)
QRP power (it actually can handle a lot more but, as you know, using a magnetic loop in close proximity with more than a few Watt is against FCC guidelines and potentially dangerous. Don’t do that)

Fully 3D printed, capacitor enclosure

The new enclosure requires no rework in order to be mounted. It is now quickly detachable by using the same mount type as the radiator/exciter assembly. This makes the antenna even more portable and, at the same time, opens the possibility of using other support types in place of the selfie-stick (fishing rods, PVC pipes etc.).
The capacitor uses a 3:1 planar reduction that, combined with the a fairly large knob, makes tuning quick and easy. A 3D printed indicator (blue) shows the current shaft position: just by looking at enclosure you can tell where about you are currently tuned and act accordingly when it’s time to tune again.

Exciter loop splitter

Thanks to a new splitter design, the exciter loop is now conveniently made out of a standard LMR240 BNC-male to BNC-male pigtail. The splitter also allows the possibility of using multiple radiator/exciter assemblies in order to, for example, work 6 meters.

Radiator loop mount

I also redesigned the radiator mount to follow the different bending radiuses of the radiator and the exciter loops. Both cables now snap-in with just the right amount of force, therefore zip-ties are no longer needed.

The new loop looks great and works better!
I’ve decided to call it K1FM-Loop. If you want to build your own, here are the instructions to do that

Categories
HF Portable

Portable QSO with Japan!

Last Sunday I took my Portable setup to the river, as I often do. Propagation was a bit short with Europe totally closed when suddenly – to my disbelief – JH4UYB popped up at S8.
I had heard Japan twice before with the Loop, but never as strong as that.

After beaming about 330 degrees (the same direction I normally use to work W7) I immediately started calling. Incredibly, part of my callsign was picked up right away! The rest of the QSO, however, took more than 3 minutes to complete thanks to the perseverance and the professionalism of Masaki, the Japanese operator.